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New rajasthani girls dance on rada tere chunri *ringus*
The attire consisted of the antriya lower garment, the uttariya veil worn over shoulder or head and stanapatta a chestband, which finds mentioned in Sanskrit literature and Buddhist Pali literature during the 6th century B. Choli Woman in traditional style of gagra choli worn in Hindi belt A choli Hindi: It evolved from the ancient Stanapatta also known as Kanchuki and is cut to fit tightly to the body with its short sleeves and low neck. The choli is usually cropped, allowing exposure of the navel ; the cropped design is particularly well-suited for wear in the hot summers of the Indian subcontinent. It is secured at the waist or hips and leaves the lower back and midriff bare. This was one of the earliest forms of a clumsily stitched skirt. It was worn using a nada or drawstring. The ghagri was a narrow skirt 6 feet 1. Until the early 20th century, women irrespective of class largely wore gagras which reached down to ankles, especially in the Hindi belt. This was largely due to jeweled toes indicating the marital status of women, as both married and unmarried women observed the ghoonghat veil. Gagras were made out of two to three layers of coarse khadi fabric which created large flared look and remained largely plain but were decorated with gota and badla embroidery on special occasions. Most commonly used dyes were indigo, lac and turmeric. The ancient, unstitched form of gagra has survived in folk theater costumes across India, particularly in Kathakali of Kerala, where layers of pleated khadi fabric are laid over a nada and tied around the waist, creating layers of flared skirt. This reflects the simplistic early style of unstitched gagras worn in ancient times. Woman in gagra and long front covering choli tied at the back Main article: Dupatta The dupatta Hindi: It is also used as part of the women's shalwar kameez costume. It is an evolved form of the Uttariya. Until the early 21st century, the dupatta was the most decorative part of gagra choli, while the rest of the garment was plainer, especially the gagra was an everyday one. Dupatta is worn in many regional styles across India. The most common style since early medieval times was to pleat the dupatta on one end, so it can be anchored by tucking it into the front waist of the gagra. This is similar to the way a sari is generally worn. Women farming or doing manual work tuck both ends of the dupatta into their choli. The dupatta is traditionally seen as a symbol of modesty, as its main purpose is to serve as a veil. There is no single way of wearing it, so as time passed and fashion changed, the styling of the dupatta also evolved. Fabrics[ edit ] The lehengas are made of a number of fabrics such as silk , cotton , khadi ,  georgette , crape , net , satin , brocade and chiffon. Decorative stitching[ edit ] Apart from the fabric, decorative stitching patterns also play a role. Lehengas come with a wide variety of decoration and embroidery work like Gota , Phulkari , Shisha , Chikankari , Zari , Zardozi , Nakshi , Kundan , etc. For formal wear and weddings, the embroidery is heavier in pearls, silk, sequins and zari. Kutch embroidery is unique in the sense that a net is woven on a cloth using thread. The net is then filled in using the same thread by intricate interlocking stitches. The patterns are usually built around geometric shapes. This embroidery follows its own traditional design logic and juxtaposition of colours and motifs. The Sodhas use a geometric style for their embroidery. The Garacia Jats are experts in tiny embroidery on the yoke, which intermingles with red, orange, blue and green threads. The Dhanetah Jats love embroidering broad pear-shaped mirrors using orange, black, yellow and red in chain stitch. This is due to traditions as well as of the fact that it is available in a number of fabrics with many different decorative choices. She wears langa voni during the first part of the ceremony and then she is given her first sari, which she wears during the second half of the ceremony. This marks her transition into womanhood. The tradition of presenting langa voni begins with the girl's first naming ceremony called Namakaran and her first rice feeding ceremony called Annaprashana. She receives her last one at her coming of age ceremony. Langa voni is traditional clothing for unmarried girls in southern India. Pahari painting depicting women in Luanchari. The luanchari is made up of two parts. The upper part is called choli, and is made of the same fabric as of the lehanga, but it is not uncommon to find the two pieces of the garment in different colours. The choli is stitched to the lehanga, to make a one-piece luanchari. This is commonly worn by the women in Pahari miniatures, and is quite similar to lehanga.
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