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THREE GIRLS SMOKING galeyandlord.com4
Etymology[ edit ] The term possibly originated in slang, but there is no direct evidence of that. The slang term "flapper" may derive from an earlier use in northern England to mean "teenage girl", referring to one whose hair is not yet put up and whose plaited pigtail "flapped" on her back;  or from an older word meaning "prostitute". This move became quite a competitive dance during this era. Americans, and those fortunate English folk whose money and status permit them to go in freely for slang terms The sketch is of a girl in a frock with a long skirt,"which has the waistline quite high and semi-Empire, James to begin a series of stories in the London Magazine featuring the misadventures of a pretty fifteen-year-old girl and titled "Her Majesty the Flapper". She would be expected to keep a low profile on social occasions and ought not to be the object of male attention. Although the word was still largely understood as referring to high-spirited teenagers  gradually in Britain it was being extended to describe any impetuous immature woman. Murray-Leslie criticized "the social butterfly type It was the first film in the United States to portray the "flapper" lifestyle. By that time, the term had taken on the full meaning of the flapper generation style and attitudes. The use of the term coincided with a fashion among teenage girls in the United States in the early s for wearing unbuckled galoshes ,  and a widespread false etymology held that they were called "flappers" because they flapped when they walked, as they wore their overshoes or galoshes unfastened, showing that they defied convention in a manner similar to the 21st century fad for untied shoelaces. In a Times journalist grouped it with terms such as "blotto" as out-dated slang: It recalls a past which is not yet 'period'. One result of this was a profound change in manners and morals that made a freer and less restrained society. Women benefited from this as much as anyone else. Time-worn prescriptions concerning what was or was not proper behavior for them no longer possessed much credibility, and taboos about unaccompanied appearances in public places, or the use of liquor or tobacco, or even pre-marital sexual relationships had lost their force. Therefore, young women wanted to spend their youth enjoying their life and freedom rather than just staying at home and waiting for a man to marry them. World War I reduced the grip of the class system on both sides of the Atlantic, encouraging different classes to mingle and share their sense of freedom. For example, customs, technology, and manufacturing all moved quickly into the 20th century after the interruption of the war. In her final movies, she was seen as the flapper image. With legal saloons and cabarets closed, back alley speakeasies became prolific and popular. This discrepancy between the law-abiding, religion-based temperance movement and the actual ubiquitous consumption of alcohol led to widespread disdain for authority. Flapper independence was also a response to the Gibson girls of the s. Studebaker model automobile Writers in the United States such as F. Among those who criticized the flapper craze was writer-critic Dorothy Parker , who penned "Flappers: A Hate Song" to poke fun at the fad. The secretary of labor denounced the "flippancy of the cigarette smoking, cocktail-drinking flapper". Some gynecologists gave the opinion that women were less "marriageable" if they were less "feminine", as the husband would be unhappy in his marriage. In Frame's book, she also wrote that the appearance of flappers, like the short hair and short dress, distracted attention from feminine curves to the legs and body. These attributes were not only a fashion trend but also the expression of a blurring of gender roles. The invention of Charles Dana Gibson , the Gibson Girl changed the fashion, patterns, and lifestyles of the s; these were much more progressive than the traditions of women's styles in the past. Before the Gibson Girl movement, women's voices as a group were infrequently heard. While some may see the Gibson Girl as just a fashion statement, it was much more broadly influential than that. It was the first time a woman could actually concentrate on her own dreams and goals. The Gibson Girl also exemplified the importance of intelligence and learning rather than catering to men's needs. According to Kate Chopin, "The Gibson Girl influenced society in the early s much like Barbie influenced society of the late s. The Gibson Girl crossed many societal lines opening the way for women to participate in things they had never done before. She, like Barbie, portrayed women as strong individuals who could play sports while maintaining perfectly coiffed hair and dress. She was criticized by many, much like Barbie, for creating an unrealistic ideal of what women should look like: Despite the criticism she was a trend setter, a model for women in both dress and action, just like Barbie. The style was considered masculine, and this was sometimes emphasized by wearing a necktie. Though women still wore the restrictive undergarments known as corsets, a new health corset came into style that was said to be better for the spine than earlier corsets. An S-shaped figure became trendy, with a large bust and large hips, separated by a tiny, corseted waist. These styles, worn with confidence and poise by modern women. She might be pictured at a desk in a tailored shirtwaist or at a tennis party in an informal sports dress. She wore her long hair upswept in an elaborate mass of curls, perhaps topped by a simple straw hat. Though she was capable and independent, the Gibson girl was always beautiful and elegant. Gibson shows off the classic Gibson Girl as a figure who embraced outdoor physical activities. She was an ideal: Gibson emphasized that any women can be represented as a Gibson Girl, both those in the middle and the upper class. Minnie Clark, known as "the original Gibson Girl", was a model for Gibson and could portray any type of women needed for his illustration. Gibson drew with characteristic grace women all of races and classes so that any woman could feel that they, too, could be a graceful Gibson Girl. Magazines[ edit ] In , a small-circulation magazine — The Flapper, located in Chicago — celebrated the flapper's appeal. On the opening page of its first issue, it proudly declared flappers' break with traditional values. Also, flappers defended them by contrasting themselves with earlier generations of women whom they called "clinging vines". They mocked the confining fashions and demure passivity of older women and reveled in their own freedom. They did not even acknowledge that the previous generation of female activists had made the flappers' freedom possible. She was young and fashionable, financially independent, and was an eager consumer of the latest fashions. The magazines kept her up to date on fashion, arts, sports, and modern technology such as automobiles and telephones. Therefore, in , the magazine began asking for true stories from its readers for a new column called "Confessions of a Flapper". Some of these were lighthearted stories of girls getting the better of those who underestimated them, but others described girls betraying their own standards of behavior in order to live up to the image of flappers. There were several examples, a newlywed confessed to having cheated on her husband, a college student described being told by a boyfriend that she was not "the marrying kind" because of the sexual liberties she had permitted him, and a minister's daughter recounted the humiliation of being caught in the lie of pretending she was older and more sophisticated than she was. Many readers thought that flappers had gone too far in their quest for adventure. One year-old "ex-vamp" declared: It began with a complaint of a mother in New Jersey who felt dissatisfied because her son did business only with a young female employee, whom she considered illegally attractive. The incident was duly reported to the officials of the bank, and rules adopted regarding requirements in dress for female employees. Those rules included that the dress should not have a pattern, it should be bought from a specific store, it must be worn in either black, blue or brown, its sleeves must not be shortened above the elbow, and its hem must not be worn higher than twelve inches from the ground. After that, the anti-flapper code soon spread to the Federal Reserve, where female employees were firmly told that there was no time for them to beautify themselves during office hours. However, back in the s, many Americans regarded flappers as threatening to conventional society, representing a new moral order. Although most of them were the daughters of the middle class, they flouted middle-class values. They shrugged off their chaperones, danced suggestively, and openly flirted with boys. Can I See You Tonight? Before the s, for a woman to call a man to suggest a date would be impossible. But in the s, many girls seemed to play a leading role in relationships, actively asking boys out or even coming to their homes. In the English media they were stereotyped as pleasure-loving, reckless and prone to defy convention by initiating sexual relationships. The evolving image of flappers was of independent young women who went by night to jazz clubs such as those in Harlem , which were viewed as erotic and dangerous, where they danced provocatively, smoked cigarettes and dated freely, perhaps indiscriminately. They were active, sporting, rode bicycles , drove cars, and openly drank alcohol, a defiant act in the American period of Prohibition. Increasingly, women discarded old, rigid ideas about roles and embraced consumerism and personal choice, and were often described in terms of representing a "culture war" of old versus new. Flappers also advocated voting and women's rights. In this manner, flappers were a result of larger social changes — women were able to vote in the United States in , and religious society had been rocked by the Scopes trial. In fact, older suffragettes , who fought for the right for women to vote, viewed flappers as vapid and in some ways unworthy of the enfranchisement they had worked so hard to win. In March an anonymous young woman wrote in describing petting as a problem, explaining "The boys all seem to do it and don't seem to come back if you don't do it also. We girls are at our wits' end to know what to do. I'm sure that I don't want to marry anyone who is too slow to want to pet. But I want to discover what is right. Kinsey found that of women born before , 14 percent acknowledged premarital sex before the age of 25, while those born after were two and a half times more likely 36 percent to have premarital intercourse and experience an orgasm. Their language sometimes reflected their feelings about dating, marriage and drinking habits: Also reflective of their preoccupations were phrases to express approval, such as "That's so Jake", [c] okay ; "That's the bee's knees ", a superb person ; "Cake-eater," a ladies' man ; and the popular: Although they earned money from work, they still wanted to earn some more for them to live. Women were willingly invited to dance, for drinks, for entrances up to jewelry and clothing. For the "return service", women granted any kind of erotic or sexual interaction from flirting to sexual intercourse. However, this practice was easily mistaken for prostitution. So, some people would call them "charity girls" to differentiate them from prostitutes as the girls claimed that they did not accept money in their sexual encounters with men. By at least , the association between slim adolescence and a certain characteristic look became fixed in the public's mind. Lillian Nordica , commenting on New York fashions that year, referred to a thin little flapper of a girl donning a skirt in which she can hardly take a step, extinguishing all but her little white teeth with a dumpy bucket of a hat, and tripping down Fifth Avenue. A report in The Times of a Christmas entertainment for troops stationed in France described a soldier in drag burlesquing feminine flirtatiousness while wearing "short skirts, a hat of Parisian type  and flapper-like hair". Beginning in the early s, flappers began appearing in newspaper comic strips; Blondie Boopadoop and Fritzi Ritz — later depicted more domestically, as the wife of Dagwood Bumstead and aunt of Nancy, respectively — were introduced as flappers. Silk or rayon stockings were held up by garters.
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